Lavender treatment plant-the most important tips part 1

Wondering about the lavender plant care? Lavender is gaining popularity quickly as a garden plant or beautiful, comfortable and useful material. This is the first in a series of part two, which will give you the most important tips for handling your Lavender plant. You will learn about irrigation, fertilizing, harvesting, or delete your plant. Part two of this series you'll get advice about protecting your plant, planting, transplanting a plant exists and propagating lavender plants.

O bar -one of the most common mistakes of lavender grown up is over-watering. It is difficult for many people to understand that Lavender doesn't want to continually wet roots. The ground should be lnkz so do not have a watermark. Water only when the soil is dry, but before the plant begins to show signs of stress. How often that turns out to be will depend on the soil and weather.

O Fertilizing -if the ground has a fair amount of hygiene material, you may not need your Lavender violations at all. In any case, if the soil is poor, lavender plant fertilizing certainly enjoy growth and bloom. Select organic slow-release fertilizer such as bone meal or fish emulsion and follow the instructions on the package. Elk in spring when the new growth is, and again during the early period of heavy flower production.

O Harvesting -some people want to enjoy their Lavender flowers by leaving them bacmh until the season ends. But many others will pick their Lavender flowers, buds for bags or other crafts. Some will want to pick their lavender oil for cooking, or even to get lavender oil. The best time for some variety of lavender and depends on the intended use, but in general the harvest can begin after the flowers have opened most of the stalks. Just grab a handful of the stems, released them with a sharp knife or a pair of shears that they protrude from the plant. It is better to tie the stems of the packages for handling or to facilitate drying by hanging upside down packages.

Delete delete o, one of the most common tasks of lavender plant overlooked. It is important to cut the plant back each year to maintain a healthy and keep its shape. Use the garden shears or Clippers once a year and cut a third of one half of the plant. The lower part of the branches will be planted over time, you should not cut this part of the plant. The best method is to cut a single plant in the form of a ball, but you can cut straight sides Lavender hedge, rounded up. Delete in the spring or late fall.

By following the tips basic Lavender plant you are looking forward to many years of pleasure from a healthy and productive your lavender plants. Look for part two in a series to learn more about these treatment plants.

Lavender treatment plant-the most important tips part 2

Is the Lavender Plant Care easy or difficult? That question is on the minds of many people as they consider this wonderful plant that is growing in popularity. This is the second article in a two part series that provides the technology which includes tips for the lavender plant care. The first article gave advice on watering, fertilizing, harvesting, and pruning your lavender plant. Here we explain what it takes to protect your plant, how to plant a new lavender in your garden, the ins and outs of transplanting, and how to propagate on the lavender plant.

O Protecting -What kind of protection does a lavender plant need? Not much! The Lavender set the sun, so protect it from too much shade. The exception may be potted lavender which will dry out more quickly than the lavender planted in the ground. The Lavender has too strong of a taste to be bothered by most animals. Insects are also rarely a problem. Protect your lavender plant from over-watering by ensuring that the soil and the area where it is planted "has good drainage.

O Planting -Planting a new lavender in the ground is not difficult. Simply combine cheap self-serve lunch spread, soil and compost or peat moss in about equal proportions, dig a hole about twice as deep and three times the diameter of the root ball and plant with your soil mixture. Adding some slow release fertilizer and rooting hormone will give your plant a healthy start. Water more than normal for the first couple of weeks and then back off and follow the guidelines mentioned above.

O Transplanting -It is crucial to transplant potted lavender regularly until it is mature to ensure that the transportable continually have room to grow. Transplanting a mature plant from one location in the garden to another is more difficult. You must assume that the transportable extend at least squares as far as the LOGEST branches and almost as deep. Dig the plant while disturbing the transportable as little as possible and follow the directions mentioned above for planting the new location.

O Propagating -While many lavenders can be propagated with seed, the easiest way is to take cuttings from a mature plant to start a new one. Cut a soft (not woody) branch about 4 inches (10 cm) from the lower part of the donor plant, peel back the lowest pair of leaves and place in a small pot with a mixture of peat moss and vermiculite or cheap self-serve lunch spread. Add some rooting hormone and keep it fairly damp for the first couple of weeks. Transplant to a larger pot in 4-6 weeks.

There are many aspects to the lavender plant care, but it is generally very easy. Following these tips will make it possible to Enjoy the beautiful and aromatic blossoms and buds each year, making it well worth the effort.

Orchid greenhouse plant care tips

Many people enjoy the experience of growing orchids in their yards. However, you must remember that the treatment plant in the orchid is quite different from the techniques used in others. As an alternative, you may opt for growing orchids greenhouse and meters. Greenhouse glass is crafted to help better the growth of orchids. In the greenhouse, you have all the necessary instructions for the appropriate plant orchid.

Perform preparation is sunlight

An essential factor for growth of plant in the orchid is sunlight. Some species of orchids are sensitive to sunlight compared to others. For sensitive species, you must perform the appropriate instructions in sunlight. This plant is very similar to Orchid care is possible in a greenhouse. In the case of excessive sunlight, a few orchids may become yellow.

It is very important to maintain a good balance between excessive amount of Sun and properly when looking up an orchid plant. If the greenhouse has provided enough sunlight, trees, you need to give them trim sessions. Cutting the trees of my well-provides shaded, it is an ideal place for Orchid plantation. Trim game played an important role in handling an orchid plant. If unavoidable, trees completely block the passage of sunlight. It has trees and deciduous forests in the greenhouse. Very good Woods deciduous forests provide the required amount of shadow in all seasons. Another way to provide enough sunlight is to paint the surfaces of glass from the outside in summer, and remove the paint in the winters.

Problems of land leveling is eliminated

Greenhouses to eliminate the problem of leveling the ground, as it provides on the ground with steps or sloping ground. A greenhouse is important should be the basis for good treatment plant in the orchid. Greenhouses with strong elements of the existing cracks and glasses. Glasses cracked display problems dripping, which leads to flowers in the desert.

Choose a good quality glass for roof

Another aspect to be considered in relation to the treatment plant should an orchid greenhouse is the roof. It is important to choose good quality glasses for the roof. Good quality glasses help provide the required amount of light the plant, at the same time, to bear the strain of fierce snowstorms, spirits. If you live in the neighborhood where the climate is bad, you can also select for double-strength glasses.

Use the draw toxic

You may also paint the outside like inside the greenhouse. However, it is better to use non-toxic paints to paint the Interior of a greenhouse. Toxic paints may have a negative effect on the health of the plants. In other words, it might be more like a room full of poisonous gases. However, the aftereffects of these paints are not toxic and not take months immediately or even change less likely to show up.

Provide good ventilation

Orchids require good ventilation in their growth. The natural environment, it is not possible to provide good ventilation. There are fans artificial available on the market. However, they are very expensive. Still, it is possible to provide suitable ventilation techniques dyed. You can install at roof openings in that they do not allow entrance to rain, wind, insects and snow.

Greenhouses built prefabricated, self-are available in the market. These incubators provide an orchid plant required. Again, they require less time than those of conventional construction. If you want to move them, you need not go to the new one, can be broken down, he was taken to the desired location.

Orchid plant care to know about

Lighting

It is important to provide the proper light conditions to grow your plants to their optimal potential. Orchids can be grown on bright windowsills or under artificial lights. Of course, if you are fortunate enough to have a greenhouse or a sunroom, plants can be grown with even greater results.

The best exposures for growing orchids are east, south and west. They should be grown in full sun light a sheer curtain or window screen is important to diffuse the sun's rays. Note how many hours of sun each window receives as trees and overhangs will cut down on the amount of sun.

Orchids that have dark green foliage, but do not flower, are usually not getting enough sun. Leaves should actually be a yellow-green color, not dark green. Each new growth produced should be as large as or larger than the previous one. Strong pseudobulbs will produce beautiful flowers and will ensure you that your plants are receiving the proper light.
Orchids thrive outside in the summer. In our area this is from mid May until October. Please be careful when moving your plants outdoors as they will need some protection from the full sun. A shade cloth area or the filtered light provided by a birch or willow tree will prevent them from getting burned by the summer sun. If your orchid has not been receiving the proper amount of sun light, you will need to increase their exposure gradually over the course of a few weeks to prevent burning. Remember, just because a plant gets sunburn, it does not always mean it is the wrong exposure for the orchid, only that it was given too much sun too quickly.

This guide shows what plants will grow well in which exposure; however, plants that require less sun light can be grown in the same window when shaded by more light loving plants.

East Window: Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, Paphiopedilum and Phragmipedium

South Window: Cattleyas, Vandas, Oncidium, Dendrobium and Cymbidiums

West Window: Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, Dendrobium and high light Paphiopedilum

North Window: Jewel Orchids and other low light species

Orchids For Under Lights: Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, Paphiopedilum, Masdevallia, Pleurothallids, Compact and Miniature Cattleyas

Artificial Lighting

If you do not have a window that provides sufficient natural sunlight, consider supplementing with grow lights or completely going to artificial lighting. One advantage of growing under lights is that you are able to grow in any room in your house. Complete light carts are available and come equipped with lighting and humidity trays.

To receive the proper intensity, orchids will need to be within 3-6 inches of regular florescent lights. When using high intensity lights carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding the proper distance from your plants to prevent burning the foliage. Most lights will also produce a certain amount of heat so be sure to have good ventilation and air movement.

In order for your orchid plants to flower consistently, you will need to adjust your light timers to replicate natural daylight. We suggest increasing one hour each month from January (11 hrs) until June (16 hrs) then decreasing one hour starting in July (15 hrs) until December (10 hrs).

The basement is an excellent choice for a growing area because it will stay at a uniform temperature and will have sufficient humidity. Heavy duty plastic or reflective aluminum can be used to insulate ceiling joists and curtain off an area. By hanging florescent light fixtures over plant tables and adding an oscillating fan for air movement, you will have your very own subterranean greenhouse.

Orchids For Under Lights: Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, Paphiopedilum, Masdevallia, Pleurothallids, Compact and Miniature Cattleyas

Watering

The general rule is to water once a week. However, orchids need to dry out slightly between waterings and then be soaked thoroughly. The old slogan says, "When in doubt do without."

Should you experience shriveled and leathery leaves or pseudobulbs, a close inspection of the roots will be necessary to decipher the problem. Over watering will cause the roots to rot, while symptoms of under watering will be dehydrated roots.

We recommend feeling the weight of the pot before watering, then again after it has been watered thoroughly. This will give you a better idea of whether it needs water or not. We do not suggest the finger test because you can only feel the top inch of the media which will not let you know the rest of the pot's moisture content.

Keep in mind clay pots will dry faster than plastic pots and orchids grown in sphagnum moss will tend to take longer to dry. When grown mounted or in slatted baskets without potting media, plants need to be watered nearly every day. Orchids can be grown in almost anything as long as you adapt your watering accordingly.

Temperature and Humidity

Normal home temperatures are fine for growing most orchids. Temperatures of 70-80 degrees in the daytime and 60-70 degrees at night are ideal. Always keep plants away from hot or cold drafts.

Many orchids, like phalaenopsis, need a drop in temperature for several weeks during the fall to set their flower spikes. This is accomplished by moving them outdoors or opening the window in which they are growing when the outside night temperature is in the mid to upper 50's. Cymbidiums like to grow outside during the summer with plenty of light and fertilizer. They require a 20-30 degree drop in temperature in the late fall to set their flower spikes. So leave them outside until danger of frost.

If you have trouble growing cool or intermediate orchids, consider growing them in your basement under lights. Beware of cooling your orchids using an air conditioner as they remove humidity from the air and may cause the flowers to wilt. A good level of humidity in winter can be attained by running a humidifier or by putting humidity trays under your plants. Feel free to spray your orchids with a mister on any sunny day to increase the humidity level.

Fertilizer

It is always very important to feed your plants, not only while they are growing, but also when they are in bloom. Like all living things, when fed properly, they will grow stronger and produce more flowers.

Our product of choice is Dyna-Gro, but any balanced fertilizer may be used. Brands such as Miracle-Gro and Peters are also known for quality fertilizers and supplements.

We recommend watering the plant prior to applying fertilizer and then following one of the two sets of instructions on the manufacturer's label. One is for feeding (1/4-1/2 tsp/gallon) weekly and one is for intermittent feeding (1-3 tsp/gallon) every 2 to 4 weeks.

If you cannot fertilize as often as you should, then use a timed release fertilizer to supplement regular feedings. Depending on the brand and formula, granules will last from 3-12 months. Top dress your plant with the manufacturer's recommended amount. Sprinkle the feed evenly across the surface of the mix taking care not to get it close to the new growths. Do not use this type of fertilizer with sphagnum moss. Because the moss is constantly moist, it will continuously release nutrients and could burn the roots of your plants.

Repotting

Repotting is the part of orchid growing that hobbyists consider most intimidating. However, with some guidance, even the novice grower will find it to be an easy and rewarding experience. First decide whether you simply want to shift your plant or divide it into several pieces. To shift your orchid, remove the plant from the pot and clean the old mix off the roots. Then choose the proper pot size allowing room for two years of growth. When dividing cattleyas and other orchids with similar growing habits, we recommend leaving 3-5 bulbs per division. Decide what size cutting you want to make. Then use a sterile knife to cut down through the rhizome and the roots staying as close as possible to the older growth. Choose the proper pot size allowing for two years of growth. Next consider what type of container will suit your orchid and watering schedule. Most orchids grow well in plastic pots. However, if you have a tendency to over-water, clay pots may work better for you since they are porous and will dry out faster. Clay pots, because of their extra weight, will also help top-heavy plants to remain upright.

We recommend potting in a fir bark mix. This media was originally developed by our founder George Off in the1960's. Fir bark is still used extensively by many commercial growers in various modified formulations.

Orchids like good drainage, so we suggest using large bark or sytrofoam peanuts in the bottom of the pot. Place the plant with the newest growth farthest from the edge of the pot and fill in with mix. Make sure to get the right level for the potting medium. Be careful not to bury the eyes at the bottom of the bulbs and leave some room for water in the top of the pot.

Note: There is some controversy as to how hard the mix should be packed. We have always tamped the mix in tightly, while others just use their fingers. The main point is to pot firmly, eliminating most of the air pockets.

If you are potting in sphagnum moss, just remove the old medium and choose the proper pot size depending on the amount of roots. Spread the roots over a cone of moss, then wrap some more moss around the root ball and place it into the new pot. Phalaenopsis should be centered in the pot, while orchids that grow like a cattleya need to be placed with the new growth farthest from the edge of the container. Be sure to cover all the roots. Moss should be spongy and should not be packed too tightly.

Staking and Grooming

Good staking and grooming habits are one of the easiest ways to make your collection look its best. By removing a few yellow leaves and trimming scarred or damaged portions, all of orchids will look better. A new single edged razor or sterile scissors will work well for cleaning up your plants.

Orchids will take up less room if they are staked upright. New growths should be staked to allow light into the rhizome area of the plant and will also ensure that the flowers will have good placement when they open.

Pests and Diseases

Bugs create a host of problems and can seriously damage a collection if left untreated. Scales, mealybugs, aphids and mites are the most common orchid pests. You will find that bugs are attracted to certain genera. For instance, mealybugs like phalaenopsis and bifoliate cattleyas, while scale prefers cattleyas and cymbidiums. Aphids are attracted to the buds and flowers of dendrobiums and oncidiums, but they do not discriminate between orchid genera. Spider mites will show up when there is a lack of humidity especially on dendrobiums, oncidiums and cymbidiums.

Always keep a close eye out for bug damage. They like to hide under leaves and sheathing and, if left untreated, they will quickly spread through your collection. By removing old sheathing once it becomes loose, it will be easier to recognize the early signs of an insect problem. Scale depletes chlorophyll leaving yellow spots on the foliage. They also love to feast on the tender eyes at the base of the pseudobulbs. Aphids will leave a sticky residue on the foliage below where they are eating. Spider mites can be identified by the silvery scarring they leave under the leaves. The good news is that most orchid pests are easily exterminated. Home and garden sprays will provide a long list of bugs they will kill. We recommend spraying the plant, then manually cleaning it as much as you can with a Q-tip or toothbrush, followed by another treatment of spray. Follow up treatments after five to seven days may be necessary to fully eliminate the problem.

Schultz, Bayer and Ortho all carry a good line of sprays that are available at any garden center, hardware store or home improvement warehouse. For a less toxic approach, we recommend using denatured alcohol, neem oil or insecticidal soap. Remember to always be extra careful of what you spray, especially on the flowers, and always follow the manufacturer's instructions to prevent plant and flower damage. Slugs and snails chew flowers and buds as well as the tender new roots and growths. Bait is readily available and will do a good job of ridding your collection of these pests. Ants can be a problem, especially when moving your orchids back inside in the fall. Orange Guard, a citric acid product, is a good way to eliminate these pests. However, if they are down in the mix, you will need to drench the pot with an insecticide or repot the plant.

Other orchid problems, like rot and fungus, can be treated by first removing the infected area with a sterile tool, then applying a fungicide spray or powdered cinnamon, which is a good natural fungicide. Improved air circulation can help prevent a reoccurrence of this problem. Flowers that have botrytis (small dark spots) should be removed to prevent spores from spreading to others blooms.

Any orchid exhibiting signs of a viral infection should be totally segregated as contact with diseased plant fluids will cause the virus to spread and may contaminate other plants. Any questionable plant should be tested and if it tests positive, it should be destroyed as there is no cure for orchid viruses. This is why it is so important to use sterile tools and equipment when handling your plants. Human contact and chewing insects are also vectors for spreading viruses.

We hope these tips will help you to be successful with your orchids. There are many orchid books, magazines, periodicals and internet sites that can help you to become a better grower. We also recommend that you go to the American Orchid Society for individual culture sheets for all types of orchid genera. You will find growing orchids to be an exciting hobby. However, a word of caution, orchids are extremely addicting! Once you purchase your first plant, you will be 'hooked' for the rest of your life!

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